Leading Design Fair Celebrates its 15th Anniversary Edition

Date: 06 Sep 2023

Karen Jones

PAD London’s 15th edition will showcase an exciting line-up of master jewellers and new talent.

Discover the fair’s treasure trove of talents taking jewellery to new heights who together will unveil sumptuous designs and never-before-seen pieces. A multitude of prolific rising stars in jewellery and design authorities alike will testify to the fair’s foresight in the contemporary landscape of collectible design.

Jewellery inspired by nature

Nature has inspired the creations of eight exhibitors, including New York-based Indian

designer Neha Dani whose Tazlina Moonstone necklace with Jaipur-sourced stones in

soothing polar blue hues brings to life the grandeur of glacial ice, and Sicilian-born Massimo

Izzo at Elisabetta Cipriani whose Australian and Mexican opal Sciara ring is reminiscent of

the deeply saturated colours of Mount Etna. Using their signature ‘Kissing’ technique, Swiss

high-jeweller Boghossían will showcase a coral-reef-inspired line featuring rare red radiantcut diamonds and natural green diamond rings which pay homage to Earth’s four elements and the beauty of subaquatic wildlife.

Elie Top: from Haute to high jewellery

Making his debut at the fair is Belgian designer Elie Top. After attending the illustrious École

de la Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne at the age of 19, Top was taken under the

wing of couturier Yves Saint Laurent and designer Loulou de la Falaise. He delved into the

rarefied world of jewellery design while working at Yves Saint Laurent under the creative

direction of Alber Elbaz and later at Lanvin, designing couture jewellery. After creating his own line for the prestigious French crystal brand Baccarat, Top launched his eponymous Maisonin 2015. The label blends tradition with innovation, seamlessly combining passé styles with the ultra-contemporary, ensuring the timeless nature of its designs. Top will introduce reptilianinspired designs, including a striking Diamond Serpent Ring in yellow gold and distressed silver with a pavé diamond resting on the snake’s head, and a Diamond Serpent Cuff featuring ruby eyes.

Longevity is luxury: 5 Evergreen high jewellers

The 2023 edition of PAD London will celebrate the return of great masters of contemporary

high jewellery, some of whom have been prominent fixtures previously at the fair.

Taffin, the New York-based jewellery Maison founded by James de Givenchy will return with

jaw-dropping jewels, such as Sun, a stately midnight blue ceramic ring adorned in a abochon.

Hemmerle, the fourth-generation German family-run house has consistently redefined the

boundaries of fine jewellery craftsmanship. Each piece is a testament to the artisans’ passion and dedication, combining unusual materials such as ancient wood, copper, or iron with the finest diamonds, sapphires, and emeralds. A striking diamond-encrusted bangle titled Harmony, featuring a harmonious mix of olive wood, bronze, and white gold, as well as a set of earrings with garnets displaying details reminiscent of pine-tree foliage, will both be on display.

Renowned for its exceptional craftsmanship and dedication to perfection, British Master

Jeweller Glenn Spiro is known for his use of rare gemstones, often in unconventional shapes

and cuts, which he skilfully sets to maximise their brilliance and beauty. The Sunrise earrings

display an eye-catching stream of diamonds, blue sapphires and tsavorite, mounted in blue

and green titanium in playful production.

As a distinguished family-owned jewellery house dating back to the mid-19th century,

Boghossían excels in blending heritage and innovation. Renowned for its gem-setting

expertise and commitment to ethically sourced gems, the house creates jewels of timeless

elegance. Their signature ‘Kissing’ technique highlights their collection at PAD, celebrating

nature’s core elements – Earth, Water, Air, and Fire. The Multi-Color Diamond and Diamond

Earrings exemplify Boghossian’s artistry with mismatched diamonds of contrasting colours.

Indian high-jeweller Neha Dani designs contemporary sculpted creations rich with emotions

and beliefs from her life experiences. Each intricately detailed piece tells captivating stories

from various inspirations, resulting in poetic, feminine, and desirable treasures. Dani will

showcase the Agalina Earrings, adorned in custom-cut blue Moonstone chunks reminiscent

of Antarctic glaciers. Each top features a wreath of baguette and round diamonds surrounded by a trio of iridescent moonstones frozen onto blue titanium.

Champions and creators of contemporary jewellery

Objet d’Emotion, the renowned London-based curated shopping concept dreamt up by

jewellery extraordinaire Valery Demure, will offer an unmissable opportunity to discover a

roster of contemporary talent.

With a solid sensitivity to technical details, the Swiss-Spanish designer Sonia Lacroix behind

Aaltas will unveil Cubo, a bold three-dimensional ring in champagne anodized aluminium, 18-carat gold, and diamonds. At the same time, Dorothée Potocka will present Look Up and

Remember To Be Gentle With Yourself, an enchanting pebble necklace featuring a mesmerising hand-engraved angel face in natural Sleeping Beauty turquoise, resting gently

on a hand-sculpted cloud surrounded by Australian pink opals and Japanese Akoya pearls.

Stephanie Wenk, the Brazilian genius creative director of iconic jeweller Sauer – a three-time

recipient of the De Beers Diamond International Award – will present her newest collection,

Fantastic Fungi. The playful pieces on display, including the Oyster earrings, are all inspired

by the mix of science and spirituality and feature wildly captivating compositions of opals,

jaspers, and lapis lazuli taking psychedelic silhouettes.

Meanwhile, Minas, the Athens family-run studio famous for handcrafting each piece of

jewellery from a single piece of wax, will introduce a stunning series in 18-carat yellow gold,

including two fashionably functional ear clips titled Swan and Calisto. The former is inspired

by the graceful silhouette of the majestic aquatic bird, while the latter is influenced by the

Cycladic paradise.

Elisabetta Cipriani’s eponymous London gallery will again enlighten the fair with

extraordinary designs by four Italian artist jewellers.

Giampaolo Babetto, an important figure of the Avant-Garde goldsmiths’ scene of the mid1960s, will present Anello: three sculpture-like miniature treasures flaunting poetic geometries and thrilling combinations of elements including amethyst and gold. The delicate Sage rings in 18-carat yellow and white gold by Giuseppe Penone will also be on show. Through nature and music as inspiration, Penone employs figurative language in his jewellery to convey emotions like allowing the wind to caress the skin and the sound of the leaves rustling. Inspired by Karesansui, the Japanese ‘gardens of stone’, Verona-based designer Giorgio Vigna will unveil Geodi; an impressive 14-element necklace in blackened silver and yellow gold assembled in a reticular structure with an organic and light look, yet imposing and resistant.

Sicilian designer Massimo Izzo will unveil an astonishing, luminous, colourful series titled

Sciara. Drawing inspiration from the natural elements of Izzo’s homeland six one-of-a-kind

rings made of blackened silver, sapphires, diamonds, and precious opals symbolise a journey

in search of the essence.

Italian multidisciplinary visual artist Sissi Daniela Olivieri will show Olympic Nests an 18-carat

yellow gold thread ring encasing South Sea pearls that intertwine the symbolism of the bird’s nest with the human body in an intricately sculpted wearable art piece. While Maria Sole Ferragamo – the creative genius behind SO-LE Studio – will be presenting a new all-recycled brass shavings capsule collection, designed for the fair in collaboration with the gallery.

Tickets available for online purchase on www.padesignart.com

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