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Bob Bob Cité – an eclectic mix of traditional and futuristic elements

21 May 2019

April French Furnell

The long-awaited Bob Bob Cité, sister restaurant to Bob Bob Ricard, has arrived. Located within The Leadenhall Building, fondly known as the Cheesegrater, the restaurant is accessed via a separate lift to level 3. But be warned, a dress code applies. “Strictly elegant”, describes the website.

On gaining entry to the restaurant, the décor begins to beckon. A “brasserie for the 21st century”, Bob Bob Cité is an eclectic mix of traditional and futuristic elements. From the 800-plus bespoke light fittings to the bespoke banquette seating, to the twelve-and-a-half kilometres of mirror-polish steel trim, weighing over five-and-a-half tons; this is glitzy excess, everything Bob Bob Ricard has become known for.

Yet while Bob Bob Ricard is known for its Anglo-Russian dishes, the menu here is French and overseen by Chef Eric Chavot.

On being seated, we perused the wine menu (including a collection of Chateau d’Yquem dating back to 1928 and two hundred bottles in large formats up to Methuselah), and opted for a glass of the Riesling Grand Cru ‘Saering’; Domaines Schlumberger, Alsace, 2015. Which while distinct in character, was not too sweet with a low level of minerality and acidity. As it was a Tuesday lunchtime we resisted the urge to ‘presser pour champagne’, the well-known BBR fixture which we were very glad to see has made it’s way to the new City outpost.

For starters, the classic French Onion Soup went down a treat. Not too salty, rich in taste and served with a crouton topped by Comté cheese.

With so many choices for main, we asked the waiter for his pick between ‘Le Pie du Poissonier’ and ‘Pan Seared Cod & Petits Pois à la Française’. His recommendation was the pie noting its smoky flavour.

It didn’t disappoint. The pastry lid was thin and delicate, the pie containing smoked haddock, salmon, cod, mussels and peas. Not too creamy, not too thin a sauce but surprisingly not too heavy a dish either. We had ours served with a side of glazed carrots with lemon thyme and for simple carrots, they really stood out as a dish well done.

We had already foregone the champagne, so we certainly weren’t going to say no to dessert. We had a crème brulee, which was good but nothing to rave about, and ‘Île Flotante’ – a floating island of the lightest, melt-in-your mouth meringue atop soft toffee and covered in toasted almond, surrounded by Vanilla Anglais. Refreshing and sweet at the same time; our favourite of the two.

As you can see from the images, all the dishes are served on a fourteen-piece suite of bone china by Wedgwood designed by Leonid Shutov himself, and hand-decorated by the craftswomen of Edwards & Lockett in Stoke on Trent.

With a prime position in the City, great quality food and a superb wine list, there’s no doubt in our mind Bob Bob Cité will be a staple for business lunches but also special occasions. We also heard that unlike the current London norm, tables will not be turned and guests will be able to stay for as long as they wish, another reason – if you needed one – to choose BBC.

For bookings visit: https://www.bobbobcite.com/

 

 

 

 

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